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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.